Tuesday, November 13, 2007

Peru, Arequipa and trip wrap-up

Flight to Arequipa one hour. We added this after we were in Peru because we met so many people who were going there or had been. There is an old monastery there. It is now open to public but for several hundred years it was for cloistered nuns. It was an honor to have a daughter there.


This area is quite rugged with snow-covered Andes, many volcanoes. 860,000 residents, second largest city in Peru. One of the largest shanty towns in Peru is here. Alt 3,000 ft.

This is another Spanish Colonial City. It is a beautiful, diverse city.

This city does not have as much Incan presence, there have been too many earthquakes. Homes were just sleeping rooms; no large churches. Agriculture largest business: 4 crops alfalfa, 2 of garlic and onion, 1 corn, 1 potato/year. It is green the year around because of rich soil from volcanoes. Few tourists.

Most interesting thing we saw in Arequipa was ice cream stand on the street corner; cinnamon clove, very good. It was kept frozen in wooden bowl of ice. Music while we ate dinner, “Roll Out the Barrel”.

If you have several days you can take a tour into the high Andes to possibly see condors. We saw one condor on this trip. This was in Cusco at Sacsayhuaman. It was sitting at top of hill. It flew away when hikers got too near.

PERU WRAP-UP

LAN Airlines impressive. Food on every flight, even those less than an hour. Always a muffin, piece chocolate candy, some pretzel-like sticks.

Peru is so overwhelming we were glad we went at a slower pace giving us time to reflect on what we had just seen, before venturing on to another awesome sight.


This was a strenuous trip. We did a lot of walking besides the thousands of steps we climbed. We were glad we had several rest days. Getting out of bed was difficult most mornings. Advil and a desire to see everything kept us going.

Like most countries there are few handicap accommodations. This makes it more difficult, but not impossible, to see everything. We saw two elderly people in wheel chairs at Machu Picchu. They could not walk and climb the area, but were inside the gate 20-30 feet and were able to see the magnificent site.

Scenery everywhere was breathtaking; our guides and drivers were all excellent; all hotels were clean; staff polite, friendly, helpful. Peruvians were friendly and beautiful. We never felt threatened.

Goodbye from Peru. We hope you enjoyed this armchair vacation with us. Please check in later for our 2006 vacation in Turkey and backpacking from Istanbul, Turkey to Vienna, Austria.


Peru-Sipan, Chan Chan, Chiclayo, Trujillo, Huanchaco

We had two nights in Lima, then early flight to Chiclayo.

Chiclayo-Trujillo: Private tour w/driver and guide. Tour cost $247/pp incl air, 2 nights hotel, entry fees, breakfast and lunch. Arranged with same tour company after arrival in Lima..

Chiclayo: (Sipan and Chan Chan) Tomb of the Lord of Sipan (richest tomb discovered in the Americas), Valley of 26 pyramids of Tucume and National Museum Royal Tombs of Sipan. Colonial city of Trujillo, and Huanchaco beach where fishermen still surf in totora reed boat as their ancestors did in ancient times. Snag Jose de Moro Museum.

Sipan-300AD, first Lord of Sipan buried, wrapped w/fabrics and metals. Buried with 8 companions. Next Lord buried on top, etc. Several pyramids up to five levels each. Top layers looted by Spaniards 17C; 1987 other looters, then a “gold rush” of natives, then archeologists. The looters only robbed the top two or three layers. Archeologists are are slowing working their way down, layer by layer.








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Temples of the Moon and Sun were burial grounds for priests and holy people. The circumstances surrounding their discovery and looting is the same as Sipan.


























Chan Chan-religious base of power 850-1470AD. Largest mud brick city in the world; political and administrative capital of Chimu Kingdom 24 square km.














Trujillo has 60K taxis (mostly modo taxis), 80K people in town, 100K in region. Few private autos. Very pretty town, sidewalks, plazas like Dubrovnik (shiny cobblestones). It is a Spanish colonial city.








This is a spectacular, fascinating area. Unfortunately only
ten percent of tourists to Peru visit this area.

Crops are sugar cane, corn, rice, small bananas.





Huanchaco, on the Pacific coast, is a beautiful

fishing village where people still use their totora reed fishing boats.

Peru-Nazca Lines

Our first tour was to Nasca Lines and Ica (eeka). Cost $286/pp. New bus picked us up at hotel for 3 hr ride to Ica. Fewer than ten passengers. We visited the Regional Museum w/its archaeological remains from the area’s ancient civilizations Paracas, Nasca, Wari, Ica-Chincha and Inca; toured the town; visited a traditional winery to see how they make Pisco, the national drink. Pisco is a fermented wine.




Pisco was at the
center of the devastating earthquake in July 2007. The Cathedral is still in ruins, but most of town has been rebuilt. Homes are mostly reed walls and no roof.

Then we visited the Huacachina Lagoon or “Oasis de America”. It is a lagoon, oasis w/trees and the highest sand dunes in the world-over half a mile high. Climbing to the top takes 3.5 hrs. It is a vacation spot where people ride dune buggies.

Lunch was at a restaurant at the Lagoon. This area is beautiful. We saw things we had never seen before. Entire town with no roofs. It almost NEVER rains, last rain was 1998. Their water comes from the Andes. We spent the night here at Huarango Hotel. It was adequate, clean, good breakfast.




The area looks like Arizona, same kind of cactus, desert.

Our guide showed us a black beetle on prickly pear cactus.The Ika beetle is shipped all over the world. She crushed the beetle to show us the red dye inside. It is expensive and used in lipsticks and food dyes. Natives used it for fabric dye. I tried this with a prickly pear cactus in Tucson and got the same red dye. In my 30 years in Tucson I’ve never heard of this being a commercial product.








On road between Lima and Ica there is a large shanty town. We saw several in the country. These are towns built for the highlanders who come out of the Andes to live and work. The Peruvian government must supply electricity and water to these areas. The houses are all small shacks, most without roofs. Walls are adobe or reeds. They must be rebuilt every year. People are mostly farm workers. Many TV antennas.

Nasca town-50,000 people, work 20% tourism; 50% copper, gold, silver, iron mining (they sell mostly to China); 30% farmers (artichokes, asparagus, potatoes). All irrigated from Andes.


Nasca Lines: Many trapezoids, parrot, spider, condor, monkey, dog, astronaut, whale, tree, hands. The history of these lines is very interesting. I had read mixed reviews on the value of visiting the area. Although it is difficult to see the lines from the air, we are both glad we took the tour.

The Nazca lines were made between 300BC and 800AD. The lines were long thought to be ancient Incan trails. The “lines” are trenches dug below the first layer of dirt, sometimes several feet deep. They show up because the dirt is whiter at that level. Why haven’t the lines disappeared? Because of the mountains and sand dunes, there is never a wind at ground level. Also, soil contains some gypsum from sea water. The designs were not discovered until 1920s when several pilots flying over the area noticed the patterns and told others about them. On June 21, 1941, a pilot noticed the winter solstice line. The lines were then called, “The biggest astrological calendar of the world.”


Our flight was ½ hour in 3-passenger Cesna. Flew at 2200 feet.

In Nasca our lunch was traditional-cold potatoes w/cold sauce on top and very hot sauce on top that. Much hotter than any Mexican salsa we’ve ever had. Also fried chicken breast.

Taxis were plentiful in this area.








Bus trip back to Lima-trip to hell and back, very funny. Left Nasca at 1:30pm; were immediately given sandwich and juice box. This was our “meal included”. Very hot on bus, A/C didn’t work. We had just had lunch but ate the sandwich because we thought it would spoil in the heat. The ceiling windows would not stay open on bus, windows didn’t open. There were six people on bus with us going to Lima.

The bus stopped many times, we thought it was overheating which turned out to be correct. Arrived Ica 4:00pm; we all sat on bus thinking it would leave in a few minutes. Finally we got off and stood outside where it was cooler. One passenger spoke Spanish. He went looking for answers. Came back and said we may take a taxi to Lima. Girl came out and said “5 minutes”; came out ½ hr later and said “10 minutes”. Then, “Hurry, run!” Then Spanish from her. None of us could understand her. She grabbed two bags, motioned for us to follow her. She ran across street, down a block, across another street, round a corner and ran onto a bus. We followed with hearts pounding and bags flapping. It was 5:59, bus started moving as soon as we were off the sidewalk. We stumbled around the bus looking for seats. Bus was full. This was a local/regional bus with no bathroom. It stopped many times for people to get on/off, some with enormous bags of vegetables. An old woman got on selling sandwiches. There was a mattress in middle of road; bus stopped while someone jumped out of bus, picked up mattress and threw it on top of bus. Most passengers were laughing; we sat in stunned silence. A few miles down the road bus stopped, someone threw the mattress off bus roof into driveway. Two guys ran out of building laughing, grabbed the mattress and took into building. Again, laughter and stunned silence.

We had two movies, one starring Woody Harrelson, Eddie Murphy and a very young Both movies were in Spanish with Spanish subtitles. Both were R rated for violence, language and sex.

The ride took seven crazy hours, should have taken four. I told our tour company about the ride; she gave us two free tickets to the top dinner show in Lima, La Dama Juana Restaurant Show Turisico in Miraflores’ Larco Mar Shopping Center.