Turkey-Countryside

We changed pace with a timeshare at Pine Bay Holiday Resort, Camlimani Mevkii, Kusadasi Aydin 09400, Turkey 0256 6180406 1BR/partial kitchen.

Uneventful flight on Turkish Air to Izmir (Smyrna),
1 hour. Got rental car and drove an hr to timeshare. Surprise on check-in. I did not have my passport. Last seen when entering plane in Istanbul. No problem, but can’t leave Turkey without one. That’s next week’s problem! See my passport blog.

Timeshare on coast of Aegean Sea, beautiful scenery, numerous bays, fish restaurants, bars, a bazaar area, shopping center and beaches. Good roads and public transportation. Gas was $7.50 a gallon.

We were just five miles from Kusadasi. This is a touristy town because this is where all the cruise ships stop on their Mediterranean cruises. Large shopping area as you would expect. Fun.

Nearly every day a large cruise ship stops for people to shop in town and take a tour to Ephesus. A friend told me that she was on one of these cruises. There were almost 100 buses going to Ephesus. The area was so crowded, walking was difficult. It was impossible to get close to Mary’s House. We went on our own and were nearly the only people there as you will see from our pictures.

Ephesus-Roman ruins, Turkey’s showplace of Aegean archaeology. Ephesus (Efi in biblical times). Awesome ruins.

John the Baptist brought Mary with him to Ephesus in AD 37. House she lived in is five miles from center of Ephesus. Meryemana Kultur Parki Shrine.

Photos were not allowed inside Mary's House.

Prayer wall at Mary's House.

Hierapolis-travertine terraces, look like iced waterfall. Thermal springs, startling white travertine terraces near Pergamene. Had trouble finding because it’s called something different on map. Many stops and questions later, we found it. Countryside so beautiful we did not mind the extra miles. It is also called Pamukkale.

Before entering the terraces we drove past the Arch of Domitian, the main street of Hierapolis built around 200AD. We also drove through the Necropolis containing over 1200 tombs from Roman and early Christian periods.

This entire area is spectacular.

Timeshare 15 km from ancient city of Selcuk. St. John’s hometown, basilica here with his remains. Nice museum, nice town, bought my carpet here.

I was finally ready to purchase my carpet. I picked a nice young man who persistently pursued me in Selcuk. They are all personable and friendly. It's part of the game in many countries. Go with the flow and enjoy the ride. Or, be firm, say, "No!" and walk away. They are just doing their job. The shop owner did not have what I wanted. He left for a few minutes, came back with what I wanted. His father kept serving us apple tea and figs from their trees. Hard to resist, and I wanted a rug. I charged the rug in case of delivery problems. It arrived about six weeks later, no problems. He spoke excellent English. He gave us insight into Ramadan, his family, expectations, pilgrimages to Mecca. He told us that many Muslims cannot go on a Pilgrimage. Acts of kindness count also. He was very proud of his military picture (see photo).

We’re always amazed when we find a place that is prominently discussed in books. They are usually very small, non-descript buildings with little signs, no charge or nominal charge at a falling-down kiosk. Sometimes you have to ask several people before finding someone who knows where it is-even in villages.

This is a very nice timeshare/resort in a great location. We drove many miles just looking at mosques, people, scenery. Saw women picking cotton by hand, shepherds (usually old with a dog and a few sheep, sometimes a few cattle or goats.) Shepherds usually sitting under a tree. Never saw a herd without a shepherd.

Saw cotton pickers, peach and pomegranate pickers, corn pickers, vegetable pickers.

Good roads, few drivers, very green pear and apple trees, pyracantha, oleander, 4-o’clocks, periwinkle (vinca). No water towers in towns; water heaters on rooftops of every apartment, like we have rooftop swamp coolers. Skylines dotted with minarets.

After a week of wandering the countryside, we flew back back to Istanbul. Change in plans. Were to take night train to Sofia, Bulgaria, but it’s Saturday and must wait until Monday to get new passport at American Embassy.

Went back to Side Hotel to wait it out. More walking, calls to prayer several times a day (very melodic and mellow). We learned that every caller has his own call, some long, some short.

Midnight train to Sofia, Bulgaria, the start of another experience.

Replacing Lost Passport in Istanbul

Our American Embassy is not convenient for Americans. It is not what we expected. I called on Saturday and got a machine. Machine did not give an address, even though the address in phone book was incorrect. The old Embassy was near the tourist part of Istanbul, the new Embassy is many miles away.

The message did say they were closed on all American and Turkish holidays. Our problem was that we didn’t know Monday was Turkish holiday. We innocently flagged a cab to start our fantastic journey. Two hours and $50 later, we arrived at the Embassy.

Traffic was terrible, our driver had no idea where to go, he asked several drivers parked beside us at stop lights, last couple of miles he stopped and asked every person out on the sidewalks. He was sweating bullets when we finally arrived and he could proudly say, “American Embassy”. He put his head on steering wheel and I think he was crying.

He left, we walked to entrance, door locked (Turkish holiday). Come back tomorrow! All signs in Turkish, guard spoke only Turkish. We had no idea why the Embassy was closed, just that it was.

Nothing to do but taxi back to Side Hotel and go on with day. Another taxi bill, $35. American Embassy very far from any tourist area, very inconvenient, not user friendly.

There were two or three places across the street to get passport pictures.

Next day, it was taxi back to embassy. This time we made sure taxi driver knew where to go, not just a vague idea in his head. What happened next was surreal, unbelievable experience. Only language spoken and written inside the Embassy was Turkish. We got through security with hand signs. They took our cameras. Motioned us to go upstairs.

I went up the stairs with all signs in Turkish to the Embassy, my husband sat in lobby playing his sudoko game. He nearly caused a riot when guard saw him, thought he was setting off explosive. Guard confiscated game and sent husband running outside. He was banned from building.

At same time, I was inside where an elderly American citizen was begging embassy personnel for a loan. He had been mugged and lost his cash and credit card. He was 70 years old.

Embassy rep asked if the man could ask his PARENTS for a loan. The man was speechless. Then rep asked if he had another relative he could ask. When the man said he had two cousins he had never met, the rep said he should call them. By then, the mugged man was nearing apoplexy and tears. He left, defeated and humbled by our government with no idea what he was going to do. I was ready to give him a loan.

Next a young American man came in needing a Notary Public. He owned some land with his brother and needed to quit claim deed so his brother could sell land in USA. The Notary needed two witnesses. Just then an older American woman from Philly (Donna) came in crying and shaking. She and I witnessed the notary.

She’s sniffing and I’m hysterical with laughter at our “odd bunch”. All this before it was my turn. The sobbing woman was on the Jewel of the Seas cruise ship. She and a lady friend took a land tour of Istanbul. At airport she discovered she had lost her passport. Friend went on to Paris and home even though this woman was handicapped. She had been in an accident several years ago, in coma for 1.5 years, wasn’t expected to live. Now her only problem was she got lost very easily and forgot things. She was not supposed to travel alone.

She had put her bags in locker at airport, took a limo (she didn’t think of a taxi) for $200 RT to Embassy. Limo driver was out front waiting for her; said he’d stay for 45 minutes so she was panicking that he would leave her. She was going to get new passport, go back to airport and sit until she could get a plane home.

Another young guy came in, heard the story, saw her sobbing and raced downstairs to stall the limo driver. Then he brought the limo driver up to Embassy. Now we’ve got a sobbing woman, me, helpful young man who spoke no Turkish, Turkish limo driver who spoke no English. Everyone shouting and throwing arms around. If you speak loudly, others will miraculously understand.

The young man and I told Donna she should not go to airport, it was a bad idea. I put my arms around her and said she was coming with us back to the Side Hotel and I would help her get a flight home.

All this happened while several American Embassy personnel went on with their business behind the counter, entirely ignoring us.

Once we got to head of line, getting our passports took about ten minutes. I don’t know what my husband thought when I came out of embassy with my arm around an older woman sobbing her heart out and a Turkish limo driver following behind.

Donna’s limo took us to Side Hotel without extra charge. Staff there helped Donna contact cruise personnel, Air France and the Airport Sheraton Hotel where she had stayed ($300/night). Hotel staff told her that her friend had called from Paris. She had Donna’s passport in her purse and hadn’t known it.

Donna, my husband and I went to a small, outdoor restaurant by Blue Mosque, had lunch and tried a water pipe with apple tobacco. By then Donna was laughing and smoking right along with us. We treated lunch; she treated dinner with bottle of wine. We left on Orient Express at 10PM, she left next morning for Philly. We now have a place to stay in Philly anytime we’re there.

She is a lovely person caught up in a nightmare in Istanbul. I’m glad we were there to help. I believe I lost my passport because I was meant to be at the embassy to help someone in need.

For the new price of about $97, I received a temporary 30-day passport. When I returned home I had a week to send this passport in for a permanent one. I did not have to pay another fee.